Kepler Electronics

The Kepler Electronics Wiki

 25th March 2024 at 5:18pm


All parts for this robot are the same as Melon_Brawler.

This iteration was much smaller than the initial one, opting for less gap between the wheels. This was a bit risky, but the cad seemed to prove that everything could fit, so I decided to send it.

Parts List

Dartbox V2 Drive (Viper) - Drivetrain

The drive motors are Dartbox V2 drive, which were selected since they are, at the time of design, basically the highest end brushed drive motors at the 3lb scale. They conform to the 22mm planetary scale, which means that they contain all the benefits of that platform (increased shock absorption relative to spur gears, relatively secure mounting), but with the added benefits of much more powerful motors, longer shafts, and reduced weight in the gearbox ring.


Quicrun 1060 - Drive Controller

The drivetrain is powered by two Quicrun 1060 ESCs, each of which are advertised as 60 Amp controllers. Each controller drives one side of drive, with splitter cables. I'm not sure if I recommend these, the drive system started going haywire at competition, but I haven't figured out the cause yet. These things did survive getting a battery plugged into the motor leads (Don't robot while sleep deprived!!), so that could be the cause, but it is still impressive that they survived that.


RobotPower Wasp - Lifter Controller

This project used a Robotpower Wasp controller for the lifter. This controller was advertised as a current-limited speed controller, which meant that I wouldn't have to worry as much about pulling too much current at stall and killing the controller. It also had limit switch inputs to prevent the lifter from overdriving and eating itself.


Dartbox V2 HR (107:1) - Lifter Motor

The lifter motor itself is the Just Cuz Robotics Dartbox V2 HR, which boasts an impressive 380 oz-in (2.6 n-m) of torque at only 60g. This motor came stock with a 4mm shaft, which meant that it could interface easily with a number of hubs and gears. It's basically just a higher reduction version of the drive motors.


Gobilda Gears - Lifter Power Transmission

The lifter went through an additional 3.2:1 reduction, partly to increase the safety factor on the lifter, and partly to more easily mount the lifter. The pinion mounted directly to the shaft of the drive motor, and the hub gear bolted to the lifter fork.



SCE44 Needle Roller - Lifter and Fork Bearings

Every fork, both powered and unpowered, had one of these needle roller bearings passed through. The 1/4 inch bore is specifically chosen to ride on shoulder bolts. 1/4 was chosen mostly because I was already using 1/4 inch shoulder bolts for Blastwave_IV

Limit Switch - Lifter stop mechanism

The limit switches were selected because of their size, and ease of acquisition. They worked pretty well!


Fingertech Power Switch

I used a Fingertech power switch to turn the bot on/off. It's not strictly necessary, as the ruleset of the competition this was designed for didn't require one, but I wanted to design for SPARC/MRCA rules.


3S 550mAh Lithium Polymer Battery

This battery was selected to power the whole bot. I wanted to go 3S to run the Dartboxes at their rated voltage. I didn't have any issues with this battery.


Spektrum Dx6e Transmitter

I originally bought this for Blastwave_I, but this was the only transmitter I have that has spring return on the throttle stick. That lets me drop the lifter stick and stop motion easily, whereas that would be quite the challenge without spring return. I bought it back in 2019, when it was closer to $120 or $150 or something. I would not have wanted to pay $250 for this.


Lemon-RX DSMX Receiver

DSMX receiver that is super cheap. I used to buy these from Endbots, but unfortunately they closed up shop. You can still get them from Lemon-RX, though the antenna is a bit larger than I'd like. I have used them though with few complaints. They are super light and work pretty well.


The main change between this and the last version was that I opted to change the heat-set inserts out for 6-32 standoffs, which would run through the whole chassis. They took up more space than the inserts, but should provide a bit more rigidity, and be much less hassle.

Because I was no longer using heat set inserts, I moved the fork assembly over to a peg-lock mechanism, that would be attached to the main chassis with screws. This would enhance rigidity, and allow the plates to be attached to the chassis without requiring the lids to hold everything.

In addition, I decided to embed the passive fork mounts into the chassis instead of having a separate piece that bolts on. This was partly for style points and partly because I didn't want to have to deal with fasteners.

Speaking of style points, I decided to also freshen up the lids and the back of the chassis. I'm still chasing that turn-of-the-century tech vibe I started with Dreamphaze, and this is a bit closer.

After assembly, everything ended up turning out pretty alright! I initially assembled it with 3d printed forks to get a feel for it, though these would be eventually changed over to aluminum forks with the final version.